My Life and Surfing

Because of my extreme urge to surf at the moment, i ended up doing a write up about surfing realizations and some tips that helped me a lot while surfing.

1. Quitting should never be an option.
In my case, I used to give up easily, I quit my piano lessons, I quit playing volleyball, I quit wake boarding, I quit doing all of them because of one thing "i will never be good at them" that's the thought playing inside my sick head whenever i try new things. I used to call myself "a quitter" but then i realized that everyone also has a first time and it's up to the person how he/she will endure all the hardships in the beginning that's why the moment i fell in love in dancing with the waves i told myself, "This will be a good start for me, i don't care if i will be good at it because what matters is i love what i am doing".

2. No pain No gain
Wipe out is inevitable and the waves will either pull you down or throw you to the shore. The moment you started dancing with the waves it comes in package you should expect being injured but there are ways to prevent it.

If you got wiped out by a huge wave, all i can say is DON'T PANIC, JUST BREATHE,THINK, look for your board and swim all that way through it (Boards tend to float so if you get tired you can hold on to it anytime).

3. Believe in yourself

You'll never be good at anything if you, yourself is not even confident on what you can do.

“Man often becomes what he believes himself to be. If I keep on saying to myself that I cannot do a certain thing, it is possible that I may end by really becoming incapable of doing it. On the contrary, if I have the belief that I can do it, I shall surely acquire the capacity to do it even if I may not have it at the beginning.” 

- Mahatma Gandhi

4. Respect 

Respecting fellow surfers is a number one rule especially if you're new to the place, Unless you wanted to be called a " kook". (Click on the link on ways how to avoid being a kook)

Respect The Ocean 

We are only guest and we are only borrowing the ocean to our mother nature that's why we need to take care of it.

5. Timing

Don't rush, you'll have your own wave, just be patient and wait for it. The key is timing, once you were able to learn when to start paddling you'll be okay.  

6. Landing on 2 feet is a no no

Let the water cushion you, that'll save you from hurting yourself especially if the water is shallow.

7. Always Cover your head

In every wipe out always cover your head to avoid injury. 

8. Sunblock is your weapon

For surfers Sun kissed skin is normal that's why you have to be protected.

You won't learn to surf if you don't want your skin to be tanned (unless you'll surf indoors).

Most people used to call me "Negra" (dark colored skin woman). Actually, I don't give a damn to what others think, I love what i am doing. :)

9. Help yourself and learn to swim

Please don't get me wrong, but if you really wanted to be a surfer, you need to help yourself and put some effort in learning how to swim, you can't have trainer forever. In my case, i'm not saying that i am a professional swimmer but i know how to float and i can swim too. 

"Many people don't want to surf because of their fear of getting tanned but what they don't know is, beautiful things happen under the sun"

- The lakwatserangnerga

NOTE: All photos are mine - unless i put credits to it